Posts by Administrator

    The unihub wiring diagram shows what to do with all 8 pins. The far right one is PTT.

    As for the non responsive board, is the board showing up in joy..cpl? Can you show a screenshot? Also photos of all your rj45 and BU board wiring will help.

    They are strong compared to Saitek etc. Yes it’s normal/intended. The real thing has variable tension, so could even be stronger if set that way. Please contact SKS about the stickers as he organises those.

    I see. I switched from the original boltless version because I found that the bolt connecting this first arm section tended to be super tight and wanted a solution that didn't require unscrewing it.

    Try plugging the rudder into the elevator trim input. If it’s the same we narrow the issue down to the BU board config. Might as well try the elevator trim into the rudder input too. Then post some photos of the wiring into the Rj45 on the hub and the wiring connections to the board.

    I’d strongly suggest leaving out the tuning app for now until you have it working without and then post any separate issues about the tuning app. That’s because some tuning app modes involve disabling encoder mode.

    Anyway, you say you’ve got 11/12 pulsing randomly and you’ve got the board configured for 11/12 as an encoder. Please post a screenshot of your encoder config and one of joy.cpl with both 11 &12 set on which is a state you get when they pulse randomly

    Thanks, please do! By the way, I'm trying to think of where I can highlight the need to configure the BU board for encoders. Did you watch an assembly video to put the Universal Hub together?

    Actually, just rereading your post the fact 12 pulses constantly seems odd - no 11 pulse? Let's check the encoder is set right first but there maybe a wiring issue as well.

    Was it this one?

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    Hi – thanks for posting these questions. I have some answers for you and hopefully they will help others too. The issue with the elevator trim and rudder trim is a general one about configuring your universal hub. Please see this support question as it explains how the hub inputs 9/10 & 11/12 need to be set for encoders. Also for the aileron to work you need to similarly map 5/6.

    Regarding flaps not releasing, this seems to be something that happens to some people and appears to be a consequence of variabilities of the 3D printing so that the end positions don’t quite give enough travel for the lever ON state to revert back to OFF. I’ve already modified the design once to give more travel but i’d better tweak it again. For now i’m afraid you’re best bet is to use some sandpaper to deepen the slot at each end.

    If it gets warm then something is shorting. There should be no heat. The loose connection on the tact switches wouldn't cause the problem you see but look at this purple ringed bit. You need to reposition that red wire as it could be contacting the black. See how the teeth in the channels protrudes through the plastic wall and the red could be touching the exposed metal.

    Also, check the legs on your halls. Keep them apart from each other and pressed into the black channels to there's no risk of them touching. One looks close and the other almost certainly touching.In both cases positive is very close to negative which is a short. Red-White or Red-yellow or blue-white or blue-yellow touching would give a reading of 100% or 0% but red-black or red-blue touching would create a short and shut down your Bodnar board.

    Hi. Sounds like the board isn’t set for the inputs to be treated as encoder inputs. I can’t remember which video covers this, but this download explains it too.

    How much does it jump? Sometimes it's actually very tiny but the animation seems to exagerate. If you run joy.cpl and do Settings > calibrate and display raw data you'll get a sense of how much variation there is. It should really range only +/- 2 or 3 for values typically around 2,000

    Ahhh, resin. I just don't think it has the strength for this part. Do you have an FDM printer too? If it's just for this part someone in the community might print a few small parts for you. It could explain your difficulties with the screw thread too.

    Otherwise lots of the finishes look really smooth - though that base looks a little funny in places.

    These springs look right but i’ll check them later today with software to help me get more precision. In the meantime here are my thoughts on options.

    1. Springs wrong
      • i’ll check but at this stage i suspect not
    2. Assembly wrong
      • you said the spring was not tight at neutral. The design doesn’t achieve much tension at neutral but it shouldn’t be loose.
      • If you can reassemble and photograph the assembly that would help
    3. Print strength.
      • Are you using eSun PLA+?
      • How many walls and what infill density?
      • Are your prints coming out clean/strong or with gaps/zits/general untidyness?
      • Please post some pics of your other printed parts

    Update: Spring is right. Length should be 31.8 and wire thickness 1.42